MEDLOCK AMES: Organically Outstanding
May 10, 2024
At our first meeting with Ames Morison, the outstanding young winemaker for Medlock Ames, we learned that he, his business partner Chris Medlock James, and Monty Preiser (co-publisher of The Preiser Key) are somewhat kindred souls in that all earned their undergraduate degrees from Tulane University in New Orleans. Though Monty’s was in 1971, a couple of decades before Ames and Chris showed up at school (and a year before they showed up on the planet), it was in that time frame that Tulane was leading the way in what was then the new fad of protecting the earth. Sustainability and organic farming, so prevalent now and so well practiced at Medlock Ames, is a direct offshoot of what we children of the 60’s partly pioneered, and left as a legacy for Ames, Chris, and their generation to carry on.
Medlock Ames sits within the 400-acre Bell Mountain Vineyard off Chalk Hill Rd. in Sonoma County. Certified as an organic producer, it is an impressive illustration of not only the full biodiversity philosophy, but of how these various considerations interact, allow for, and help in the production of fine wine. 75% of the land is managed for maximum ecological health of the native oak woodlands and grasslands, while 25% is for grapes, olives, and vegetables. More acreage for flora and fauna puts less pressure on the areas to be farmed, and thus better fruit is spawned. Snowy white barn owls control rodents and other unwanted birds, and bats are predatory insect eaters. Sheep are brought in by a shepherd once a year to eat the weeds, and as there are no fences to keep out wildlife, parts of the estate are dedicated to corridors that allow these animals to pass through the property without danger to them, the vines, or the people.
How to best experience Medlock Ames depends on your desires and your time, since a number of options are available. Relatively new is the elegantly rustic tasting room in the heart of Alexander Valley (about 12 minutes from Healdsburg and 25 from Santa Rosa). Set in the midst of edible gardens and beautiful landscaping, you can sit on the porch to schmooze or picnic, or choose from the tasting options inside. No reservations are needed for the traditional tasting of four current releases, or for the ever-changing library wine sampling. Should you want to pair wines with local meats and veggies, however, an advanced booking is necessary. Prices are gentle for all categories, and if you are a club member, it’s even better – all complimentary for you and up to three guests.
Recently we have planned our stop at the tasting bar for later in the day since through a small door is a charming little speak-easy style bar which (conveniently) opens when the tasting room closes. Here you can relax and enjoy cocktails (some made with homegrown ingredients), micro brews, and, of course, a broader selection of wines than are available next door (a winery owning a bar is not allowed to have more than 15% of their own products at the latter). This unique room is a great place to meet locals, and, on warmer nights, to sit outside and view the Valley.
For only $35 you can also visit Bell Mountain Ranch, where you will walk through the winery, taste fresh fruit from the gardens, traverse the vineyards, enjoy a wine tasting overlooking the ranch, and learn about organic farming and winemaking practices. Once again, members of the wine club are welcome for no fee.
We cannot finish before touching on the wines, and it’s pretty easy here. The Sauvignon Blanc is made in what we call the modern style. Rich in the mouth, melon & citrus abound until tempered by a kiss of oak to round out the experience. We have always recommended the excellent Chardonnay, which features crisp acidity, lush minerality, and a lengthy finish. Finally in the white category is the peach and honey nuanced Late Harvest Sauvignon Blanc.
Ames creates some wonderful red wines as well, though he is particularly proud of the structured, yet supple, Merlot, which offers discernible levels of flavors. On some days Library Merlots are available, and their age-ability is wonderful, which is no doubt why they are being shown off. The Cabernet Sauvignon has soft/chewy tannins, a full mouth of dark, dusty chocolate, an upper palate of black cherries and exotic spices, and a long, lush finish. For the prices asked, no one makes better wines than the crew at Medlock Ames. You can buy all five (one of each) of the above, as an example, for under $200.00, and impress your friends (and yourself) while you feel as if you are consuming the highest line wines in two counties.