DELOACH: Reflection of a 21st Century Winery
Ask the staff at DeLoach (or for that matter the staffs at Buena Vista or Raymond in Napa) what’s new, and you are likely to get a wry smile rather than a definitive answer. In a good way, they really cannot be sure because they never know what creative and educational changes are coming next. Owner Jean-Charles Boisset, whose innovations and successful winery transformations have landed him on almost every industry related magazine cover imaginable, continues to guide each of his properties, including DeLoach, to new heights.
The hallmark of all Boisset properties is the confluence of fine wine, education, and fun. To that end, General Manager Lisa Heisinger oversees a fine group of wine educators who have been well trained to not simply pour a sample or two of wine, but also to discuss origins, soils, winemaking procedures, and food pairings. One room at the winery, for example, is devoted solely to vineyard locations and compositions, factors Jean-Charles (raised in Burgundy and thus immersed in both European and American wine culture) correctly believes dictate, in great part, a wine’s later profile.
The Boissset estates can also be recognized by their dedication to biodynamic, organic, and sustainable winemaking, which all promote the health of the land, vines, and, by extension, the wine. In 2004 DeLoach tore out its highly lauded vineyards and replanted with cover crops designed to revitalize the soil. New vines were planted in 2006, and the first vintage grown with biodynamic farming techniques was released in 2010. Worth a look is the property’s garden, for 23 years a horse pasture which now boasts super rich soil. It allows the winery chef to cook with organic, biodynamic, and sustainably farmed ingredients, and serve the fresh produce in the guest house and to winery visitors. Today, the garden is comprised of 61 irrigated, raised beds, and the exterior is surrounded with barrels of herbs, flowers, berries, bulbs and a myriad of roses. Three of the garden beds are dedicated to culinary herbs and edible flowers, as well as plants that attract pollinators (bees & butterflies) to the garden. There is also a bed with plants used to make biodynamic preparations for the garden and vineyards, along with many medicinal herbs. The winery cultivates a small menagerie of sheep and chickens (and who knows what else) that can keep your attention, or that of a child. You are invited to stroll all the grounds and even enjoy a picnic.
Of course, one must not forget the wines or the wine tasting opportunities. The Estate Series of wines, coming from the property itself, are fully compliant with biodynamic standards. The Vineyard Designate Series is comprised of limited production wines from some of the region’s most acclaimed vineyards. The Finest Selection level wines are bottled only in years when the winemaker feels the quality represents “Our Finest Selection” (OFS). These wines are hand-made in small batches using the best fruit and the most exacting techniques. The Russian River Series uses grapes from selected growers in the Russian River Valley, and represents what the winery says is its “heart and soul.” Finally, the California Series wines are made from vineyards throughout California, and, unlike most of the wines in thepreviously described tiers, can be found in wine stores or restaurants nationwide.
We love almost all the wines here, but if we had to choose some favorites they might be the 2010 OFS Chardonnay ($32), the 2009 Marin County Pinot Noir ($40), the 2009 Masut Vineyard Pinot Noir ($45), the 2008 van der Kamp Pinot Noir ($45), the 2008 Forgotten Vines Zinfandel ($36), and the Riebli Valley Zinfandel ($45).
DeLoach Vineyards offers an innovative and still unique Barrel to Barrel program where some of the winery’s best Pinot Noirs are encased in a cartridge that fits into an attractive 10 liter oak barrel and enables you to have Pinot on tap whenever you desire. The new JCB room allows you to compare French Burgundies with California Pinot Noirs and taste the exciting new JCB line of wines. By appointment, you can now walk through the vineyard/garden and experience the process of making your own mustard, and then taste mustard-inspired food with a flight of wine. And also by reservation, you can taste Pinot Noirs in private sessions on Saturday and Sunday afternoons.
So many choices, so much to do, and so much to enjoy. You will want to plan more than one visit to the enthralling DeLoach winery.